Clonmacnoise
Our first stop was Clonmacnoise, once a major crossroads of religion, learning, trade, craftsmanship, and political influence, now a cemetery scene from centuries past. Here we found other tourists arriving by boat or bus and tromping over ancient graves to inspect limestone markers and hear guides describe the meaning of symbols carved on Celtic High Cross replicas.
Set next to a cow pasture so green it seemed sprayed with fluorescent paint, the picture was something straight out of Hollywood.
To the castle
Tuesday we drifted into Lough Derg, at 24 miles the longest of the River Shannon’s chain o’ lakes, and tied up at Terryglass, where we boarded a van for the half-hour ride to Birr Castle Demense.
Descendants of Sir Lawrence Parsons—the man who acquired its considerable acreage in 1620—still live there, but the formal gardens and property are open to the public. Rustic bridges, gurgling streams, manicured lawns, hayfields, and leafy glades lead the curious to the stellar telescope built in the 1840s by the Third Earl of Rosse. It remained the world’s largest for more than 70 years.
We tarried a second night in Terryglass so some of the group could visit a crystal factory, shop, and have a pub lunch in Galway the next day. Those of us who view shopping as punishment stuck around, grinning like Cheshire cats as we lapped up Olivia’s best-ever mushroom soup and enjoyed open-face smoked salmon sandwiches.
Flora and fauna
In the morning we took off for the picturesque marina and charming village of Mountshannon, where pillowy hills form a backdrop for colorful buildings and spectacular flowers. The afternoon’s entertainment was a trip to Craggaunowen, an in-progress re-creation of early Irish agricultural life.
During the journey we spied herons, kingfishers, swans, ducks, and gulls. We read, boned up on side-trip brochures, wrote postcards, snapped photos, chatted, sketched, and played cards.
Eating and hiking
We ate. And we ate. Breakfasts included orange juice, fresh and dried fruit, cereal, beverages, and a choice of three hot entrées. On-board lunches featured salads, casseroles, pizza, breads, and dessert. Dinners continued their cordon bleu quality. Thank heaven we were shedding calories during in-town hikes and educational excursions!
Reaching the end of our voyage, we tied up at the marina near Killaloe’s old depot and crossed the long, sidewalk-less bridge into town. We explored the hilly business district, riverfront park pathways, and St. Flannan’s Cathedral, built about 1200 by Donal Mór O’Brien, a descendent of the legendary king Brian Ború.
There was also time to sit on the sunkissed deck of the Shannon Princess, talking to passersby, and pretending we were masters of our tidy ship.
At the end of our journey, we clinked our glasses in an Irish toast: “To hellos, goodbyes, and friends made in between.”
For more information on barging in Ireland:
• The Barge Lady, 101 W. Grand Ave., Suite 200,
Chicago, IL 60610. Phone: 800-880-0071;
www.bargelady.com.
• Abercrombie & Kent Inc., 1520 Kensington Road,
Suite 212, Oak Brook, IL 60523-2156.
Phone: 800-323-7308;
www.abercrombiekent.com.
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