Erickson Tribune

Travel

UPDATED: Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Mobile’s on the move

Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007
 

This city of the new Old South is a blossoming travel destination

By Paulette Dininny
THE ERICKSON TRIBUNE

There’s more to Mobile, Ala., than magnolias, sweet tea, and debates over whether “y’all” is a singular or plural reference. Mobile’s on the move.

While it owes its historic flavor to the French, British, and Spanish, the city’s future is being shaped by maritime, aerospace, chemical, oil and gas industries, as well as tourism. The economic boost is a bonanza for visitors.

On the waterfront
Mobile’s waterfront has the country’s newest cruise terminal where you can drive in, park and board a Carnival ship for the western Caribbean without breaking a sweat. Not far away, the historic Battle House Hotel is open after a $220 million renovation that includes connecting the original eight-story structure to the tallest building in Alabama. Shining like polished gems are the elegant lobby with a sensational art glass dome, the beautifully restored Crystal Ballroom, and the Trellis Room, also with a handsome art glass ceiling.

A river view room is what you want at the newly renovated Riverview Plaza Hotel if you like watching maritime work and activity. The hotel has cheerful rooms, helpful staff, and a fine dining room.

Mobile’s Mardi Gras
A huge area draw is Mardi Gras, which originated in North America in Mobile—not New Orleans. Fun is the watchword with colorful floats and lavishly costumed members who party hearty.

After Los Angeles, Mobile rents more white tie and tail formal wear than any other U.S. city. The only time Mardi Gras wasn’t celebrated was during the two World Wars and during the Civil War, referred to locally as the War of Northern Aggression.

Mobile and Moon Pies are synonymous during Mardi Gras. The soft confection is used as “throws” along with beads, doubloons, candy, and toys. Moon Pies replaced harder boxes of Cracker Jacks, and tons of the sweet treat are thrown each year.


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“This is how you need to stand at parades,” says one Mobilian, who with feet firmly planted, stretched his arms out in front. “Never bend over to pick up a throw, because you’re likely to get bonked in the head when you stand up. Just put your foot on it, and grab it later,” he advises.

A fun way to experience Mardi Gras at other times is by visiting the Mobile Carnival Museum where you can see the inside and outside of a float, hear the music, buy the trinkets and masks, watch the videos, and see amazing costumes worn by past kings and queens.

Men’s and women’s costumes, robes, crowns, and sceptres can cost tens of thousands of dollars. They’re all handmade, down to sewing on individual beads and sequins. The robes easily weigh anywhere from 40 to nearly 100 pounds, requiring wearers to practice days in advance of their first outing.

‘Fried, stewed, and nude’
When hunger pangs hit, the city has many awardwinning eateries where getting fresh, tasty seafood is easy. On Dauphin Street in downtown Mobile, Wintzell’s is a best bet for oysters “fried, stewed, and nude.” Their broiled grouper is superb, and the bread pudding tops the list of comfort food.

Another popular seafood restaurant is Felix’s Fish Camp on Battleship Parkway, which looks like a giant rustic fish camp from the outside. Its menu also offers beef and yummy desserts and a dessert drink called Kahlua Freeze.

The Original Oyster House, relocated from its last Battleship Parkway site after damage by Hurricane Katrina, is a family-style seafood house. Owners buy 1,000 pounds of one kind of shrimp alone each week. Fried crab claws are a very popular item as is the dark gumbo with crab and lots of shrimp. Mobilians know seafood, and the full parking lots at these restaurants attest to it.

A fine recipe for relaxation is The Grand Hotel Point Clear Resort & Spa, known as the South’s “Queen” of resorts, which has been around for more than 150 years. If you’re lucky, you might even experience a natural phenomenon known as “Jubilee” when during the night every now and then thousands of fish, crabs, and shrimp come up on shore.

The ‘Jubilee’
For further exploring, Bellingrath Gardens and Home will delight gardeners and flower lovers. The staff manages to keep color in the gardens year-round; even in January, you’ll see cameilias and plantings that tolerate cooler weather.

Five Rivers Delta Center is a new recreation area not far from downtown. Within its 250,000 acres are walking trails, floating canoe and kayak landing places, picnic shelters, and boat tours. Campers might want to reserve a floating camping platform for a unique outdoor experience.

Look for Mobile to show up more often as a blossoming travel destination. It makes a fun before or after add-on to a cruise as well as a thoroughly enjoyable way to sample the new Old South.



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