Erickson Tribune

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UPDATED: Tuesday, February 06, 2007

Bicycling in Sicily—sometimes bumpy, always beautiful

Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007
 

By Jane Durrell
THE ERICKSON TRIBUNE

Truth to tell, Sicily is not the best biking country for a group age 59 to 83.

But having said that, I wouldn’t have missed it, not only because Sicily is gorgeous, ancient, and welcoming, but because my fellow cyclists were a great group. We came from Minnesota, Oregon, Virginia, Ohio, New York, and spots inbetween. And while there were varying opinions on the trip itself, we all agreed that we liked the country and each other.

Work in progress
Organized by an exemplary company I have biked with many times, the Sicily tour seems to be a work in progress, tweaked a little differently each time out. Sicily sometimes defeats it.

For example, there can be cultural impasses: we were prodded to hurry to meet a guide who himself arrived late, fresh and smiling, explaining he’d been swimming. The local habit is to block off traffic, unannounced, when roadwork is going on. A route along the shore can become a trek through hills.

Sicily is a mountainous island, its level roads usually along the coast. Biking at sea level is fine, but if you leave it there’s nowhere to go but up.

One day our group encountered iron gates barring the way, just where an orange grove bordered the route. This well-paved private road, never closed before, was locked off now because thieves had been at the oranges, a passerby told our leader. The alternate route took us on a busy highway, where the sight of other cyclists reassured me. Italian drivers, by the way, know bicyclists are legitimate traffic and are courteous to them.

Breathtaking rides
All else aside, we had some long, glorious, downhill sweeps from points we’d reached by bus, through countryside where we stopped, now and then, to look at the remains of a Roman aqueduct, at openings in a cliff face to what might have been Neolithic dwellings, passing by fennel growing in the fields. Another crop we passed was artichokes, a Victorianlooking plant with dark, heavy, deeply serrated leaves.


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One day we toured one of the high-tech, very modern produce farms and its acres of plastic-covered greenhouses. Sicily’s valleys and hillsides have produced food for export literally for millennia. Under the serviceable plastic we saw tomatoes, eggplant, celery— supremely healthy—in the most up-to-date growing conditions. A low-tech pollination aid: bees housed in cardboard hives fly freely in the greenhouses.

The owner of the farm, gracious and informative, was joined at the end of our tour by his wife and staff, who served us bruschetta made from their own tomatoes and cake fresh from the oven.

Another day we biked in the southeast corner of the island, the area where World War II Allied troops landed. We stopped for quite a long time to look over the bay where Generals Patton and Montgomery’s men came in from Africa.

I could see in my mind’s eye the peaceful curve of water filled with landing craft and 19-yearold boys coming ashore. Seasoned troops were kept behind, said one of my fellow cyclists, a WWII history buff. There was no resistance here, only farmers present, the Germans elsewhere, our Italian leader told us. Resistance and Germans came later.

‘Trip of Views’
This was, more than any biking tour I can remember, the “Trip of Views”—not only as we biked, but also from our hotel rooms. Frequently it was the Mediterranean itself, blue to the horizon and marked by gentle swells. Or perhaps a village square, set off by palm trees and old buildings. Or a terraced hillside.

The towns themselves were interesting and frequently beautiful. We spent a morning in Caltagirone, where handsome ceramics have been produced for centuries. We walked up the 142 steps to the old cathedral, each riser faced with a unique design in majolica.

Syracuse, founded on this coast by Greeks nearly 3,000 years ago, still has its Greek theater with seating hewn out of the hillside’s solid rock. There’s also a fine museum and a fish market with more fish than you ever knew were in the sea, including octopi still astonishingly alive.

Sicily is reputed to have the best food in Italy. Quite possibly true. We ate well, sometimes exceedingly well. Accommodations were clean and pleasant. If glitches happened more frequently here than on other trips I’ve made, they were in the end forgivable for the experience itself.

Jane Durrell writes frequently about her travels for the Tribune, including stories on off-beat London, Pittsburgh’s artistic treasures, and vacationing with family in an Italian villa. Share your travel adventures with her and others in the Travel Adventures forum (www.EricksonTribune.com).

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