Pigs, dogs, and rakes
In Europe, specially trained pigs or dogs root out truffles. Truffle hunters walk the area with their prized pig or dog who, when it detects a truffle, becomes extremely excited and begins to dig.
In the United States, trufflers use rakes instead of animals to locate the fungi. “Too often, when rakes are used, truffles are taken out of the ground before they are ripe,” says David Pilz, a forest mycologist affiliated with Oregon State University, and the author of numerous articles and booklets about wild edible mushrooms and truffles. “Consequently, they have less flavor and command a much lower price. Truffles from Oregon cost about $100 per pound. If we are to compete with the Europeans, we must develop better harvesting practices.”
Selecting truffles
Choose firm, well-shaped truffles with a strong odor and no sign of blemishes. Truffles should be used as soon as possible after purchase but can be stored up to one week in the refrigerator. The scent will permeate any fatty food that is stored near the truffles, giving the cook a flavor bonus.
Since they are perishable, and so little goes so far, seldom will you find large truffles in kitchens at home, because they will spoil before they can be consumed. “Rather, most truffles are sold to restaurants that can prepare 15 to 20 meals from a single ounce of ripe, pungent truffle,” Pilz says.
Fraction of the cost
Just because truffles are expensive and perishable doesn’t mean you cannot enjoy the intense flavor and complexity of this precious creation at home. Specialty food stores across the country sell a wide range of truffle products, as do a number of companies on the Internet.
For instance, a seven ounce tin of French Summer Black Truffle Peelings costs about $50. Satisfy the most sophisticated taste by adding truffles uniqueness to such things as pastas, salad dressings, omelets, and soups, not to mention a myriad of main courses. Or, for less than $15, you can incorporate French Black Truffle Butter into your cooking to create international sensations.
Here is a simple recipe for mashed potatoes made elegant with the use of truffle butter:
Golden Mashed Potatoes with Truffle Butter–Serves 5
Ingredients
3 pounds large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 4-inch chunks
Salt
3/4 cups warm whole milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
Freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons truffle butter, at room temperature
Directions
1. In a large pot, cover the potatoes with cold water and bring to a boil. Salt the water generously and boil the potatoes over moderately high heat until very tender, about 20 minutes.
2. Drain the potatoes in a colander. Return them to the pot and shake the pot over moderately high heat until the potatoes are completely dry, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.
3.Using a potato masher, crush the potatoes in the pot. Add 3/8 cup of the milk and the unsalted butter and season with salt and pepper. Continue mashing until the potatoes are smooth. Add the remaining 3/8 cup of milk and the truffle butter to the potatoes and mash until thoroughly blended. Season again with salt and pepper and serve piping hot.